> “Buy less, choose well. Don’t buy things for the sake of it because then everyone looks alike….I offer no choice but to ask for the end of indiscriminate consumption. If you have to choose something, save up and choose well” Vivienne Westwood
Watch Vivienne Westwood interview on BBC with Jonathan Ross here
> It´s great and brave to hear the launch of a new hard-bound magazine. Twin, is the “older sister” of stablished Lula magazine. A project conceived by Becky Smith, Lula´s creative director, together with British Vogue’s Aimee Farrell and stylist Celestine Cooney. “The book is designed by women for women. I wanted to take that Lula girl and make her older, a little bit more independent.” explains Smith.
The firs issue includes articles by Britain’s first female poet Carol Ann Duffy, feminist author Sheila Rowbotham and performance artist Miranda July, as well as editorials shot by Ben Weller, Carlotta Manaigo and Mari Sarai.
> Ebay has launched the websiteThe Inside Source, written by fashion journalists. The aim is to shift the idea that ebay only offers sencond hand things. The syle of the web follows the success model of net-a-porter & similar fashion portals that offer a purchasing experience closer to a fashion magazine with fashion tips and hot topics. E–commerce has proved to be the only rapidly increasing bussiness and still very few actors participate.
> H&M ha sido el retailer que más ha conectado con el mundo del diseño. Ahora, dá un paso más y se introduce en el ámbito instalativo, de la mano de UXUS, una consultora holandesa que aúna el sentido comercial con el artístico. En esta instalación H&M Home Interactions en su headquarter de Estocolmo, el visitante puede tocar y jugar con el vaivén de las prendas. Una bonita manera de expresar sensualidad para comunicar que la tienda virtual de H&M Home, se complementa ahora con espacios donde tocar las prendas.
> Gilles et Dada, esta pareja de diseñadores finlandeses extrae su ideario del movimiento dadá ( uno de mis preferidos):
“Gilles et dada is a state of mind….applies to everything and yet it is nothing. It is the point where the yes and no and like everything in life, Gilles et Dada is useless. Without pretention, as life should be…and yet still have dreams..”.
Fotografías de modelos distorsionadas, con una cuidada iluminación y puesta en escena, sirven para ilustrar una bonita colección ” Walking through life” .
Está claro que debemos mirar al norte para descubrir nuevos talentos. En su página web tenéis toda su colección.
> Acabo de recibir esta nueva iniciativa colaborativa entre el portaltheoutnety 10Corso Como , la boutique de culto en Milán. Alianzas comerciales inteligentes de estos nuevos actores digitales en el universo moda, que en estos que en estos dífíciles momentos muestran crecimientos de dos dígitos.
> La ilustración ha venido siendo una especie de “hermana menor” en el universo moda aunque posee, sin embargo, la capacidad de transmitir universos únicos, como el de Clare Owens, una ilustradora inglesa enamorada de los gatos, el té y todo lo francés.
Martin Margiela scarification. Photo courtesy Agenda Inc
> Maison Martin Margiela has finally announced that Margiela was no longer designing at the brand. The brand was purchased by Diessel Group in 2002 and at this moment the rumors started to say that Margiela would never be the same again.
> Anrealage is the brand under designer Kunihiko Morinaga, born in 1980 in Tokyo. Inspired by the concept ‘God is in the Details’, Andrealage re-examine ordinary lives through an excessive focus.
A complete overview of Anrealage colections/ installations here
> Miroslaw Balka , polish scuptur , has been selected as the 10th artist to fill the Tate Modern´s Turbine Hall for the annual Unilever commission. A monolithic installation of a cavernous black hole takes Tate´s visitors to the dark side.
> A Shaded View of Fashion Film Festival 2. The competition, organized by Diane Pernet, included 40 films relating to fashion, style and beauty. Pernet’s initiative is part of a trend in fashion that sees the industry increasingly promote itself on film: recent developments include a number of fashion documentaries (The September Issue, Valentino: The Last Emperor), film festivals (e.g., the Marc Jacobs Film Festival in Melbourne), artistic short movies instead of mundane ads (Victoria Beckham, Vanessa Bruno), and videos instead of runway shows (e.g., Gareth Pugh, also part of the festival). Here are the winners of the short film competition:
Steven Klein: Fiction Noir
Ruth Hogben for Gareth Pugh: Gareth Pugh AW09
Johan Renck for H & M: Mattew Williamson
Georgie Greville: I wanna be your dog
Mattias Montero: Herr Rodebjer
Jason Bradbury & Claire Kurylowski: AW 2509BC for Harald Lunde Helgesen
> Gareth Pugh, finally a show that worths mentioning during current SS2010 Fashion Week.
Asimetrical, asexual, futuristic & dramatical siluettes in grey and black.
> Por fín un desfile digno de mención durante estas Semanas de la Moda. Gareth Pugh demuestra coherencia en suna colección de siluetas asimétricas, asexuales y atemporales en su habitual geometría futurista en gris y negro